By Jim Farber

Between the airport at Lihue and the end of the coast road on the North Shore of Kaua'i, the landscape is decidedly modern. Isolated beaches are surrounded by lines of traffic, manicured golf-courses, bustling shopping centers, palatial resorts and tourist-oriented businesses of every kind.

Thankfully, when the road comes to its end at Polihale State Park — gateway to the Na Pali Coast and the world-famous Kalalau Trail — civilization fades away.

"That which does not kill us makes us stronger," the famous aphorism by the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, may seem an odd way to introduce a story. But there is something to be said for taking on physical challenges that combine an element of risk with the goal of personal achievement.

The Kalalau Trail has been described as the most dangerous hike in the world. Over the course of its 11 miles the trail requires hikers to ascend (and descend) long, steep sections over centuries-old uneven black stone blocks. The weather conditions can change in a minute, raising the possibility of flash floods. In summer months the threat of dehydration is considerable, and signs at the trailhead warn hikers to take lots of water. There are swift river crossings leading to spectacular waterfalls, even a harrowing stretch of trail with a sheer drop justifiably called "Crawler's Ledge."

To control the number of people on the trail, hiking and camping permits and shuttle reservations are required. And while I had no intention of backpacking the entire trail, I was up for a challenge to celebrate my 79th birthday.

Once on the trail you become one with the landscape, the sun dappling through leaves, your boots kicking up red dust or slogging through mud when the skies open up. For long stretches you're completely enfolded in a world of vast overhanging trees, flowering plants and rushing streams. Then, suddenly, you come out on a ridge line and the magnitude of the Na Pali coastline spreads out before you.

Oddly, it was not the distance or the elevation gain that proved difficult. It was the steep, uneven nature of stones and the torrential rain that made them slick underfoot that proved too much. By the time I reached the trail's first landmark, Hanakapi'ai Beach, I was content to head back, using my trekking poles to secure my footing with each step. It was not a fun hike, but it was incredibly beautiful.

Take to the sea on one of the many tour boats available and you can experience the Na Pali Coast in an entirely different way. I chose Hanalei Catamaran Na Pali Tours and was very glad I did. It's hard to describe the exhilaration of surging through the waves with spray in your face as you behold the scale of these monumental mountains, pearlescent beaches and pounding surf. And if the moment is exactly right, you can sail into one of the enormous lava grottos just as a shaft of sunlight through the rock ignites a glistening waterfall. Most cruises also include time for snorkeling.

Snaking lazily to the sea, the Hanalei River is ideal for kayaking, and Kayak Hanalei can supply everything you need. Once you're outfitted you can paddle upstream, past the old iron trestle highway bridge. It's a transition that's like traveling through time as you enter a dense jungle landscape of giant bamboo groves, entangling vines and exotic bird life.

A visit to the North Shore of Kaua'i must include the Limahuli Garden and Preserve. For at least 1,500 years the Limahuli Valley has been home to the Hawaiians. Today it is one of the last easily accessible valleys with intact archaeological complexes, native forests and a pristine stream with descendants of the valley's original inhabitants dedicated to caring for it.

In the native language pu'uhonua means "a place of refuge," and the preserve has won several awards in recognition of its work, including the "Best Natural Botanical Garden" award from the American Horticultural Society for demonstrating the "best environmental practices of water, soil and rare plant conservation in an overall garden design." They also received the Koa Award for dedication to the perpetuation of Hawaiian culture.

The preserve offers immensely informative guided tours that involve about a mile of walking around the hillside grounds. For instance, our guide pointed out, "Did you know 90% of the flowering plants we associate so closely with the Hawaiian Islands are actually not native? They were all brought and planted here during the colonial period."

The views from the gardens looking up to the mountains and out to sea are spectacular, accented by the unforgettable fragrance of blooming plumeria.

WHEN YOU GO

General information about Kaua'i: kauai.com

Hiking and camping information for the Kalahua Trail: dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/kauai/kalalau-trail

Hanalei Catamaran Na Pali Tours: kauai.com/kauai-tours/napali-coast-catamaran-tour-hanalei#location

Kayak Hanalei: kayakhanalei.com

The author kayaks along the Na Pali coast of Kaua'i, Hawaii. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Sunlight hits a waterfall in a grotto along the Na Pali coast of Kaua'i, Hawaii. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

For at least 1,500 years the Limahuli Valley on the island of Kaua'i has been home to Hawaiians. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.

Jim Farber is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

The author kayaks along the Na Pali coast of Kaua'i, Hawaii. Photo courtesy of Jim Farber.