If you've ever wanted to get up-close and (almost) personal with a real Queen, one who rides in a gold coach and waves backward to crowds of her cheering subjects, be in The Hague, political center of The Netherlands, on the third Tuesday in September.

Designated since l908 as Prinsjesdag, or Day of the Princelings, it is the day when the reigning monarch of The Netherlands opens Parliament, and a day when Americans can come close to seeing a real, live fairy-tale — golden coach, eight prancing black horses, and a Royal Family with true movie star quality, headed by the popular, 70-year-old Queen Beatrix, still elegant and stylish after leading her country for 28 years

Unlike some of Europe's few remaining royals, who are usually seen behind wrought-iron fences or darkened limousine windows, Queen Beatrix makes a point of being accessible to her people. The Netherlands, if you remember your history, is one of the world's oldest republics (l581) and birthplace of the first-ever middle class (in the l600s). Today's Dutch love to tell how the Queen has been known to slip out of the royal palace, incognito in a head scarf, and go clothes shopping in some of the posh couture shops next door.

On Prinsjesdag, the entire Royal Family ventures out into the populace. It's a national holiday, the banks and shops are closed, summer's over and the fall season's beginning. The gregarious Dutch turn out by the thousands to celebrate, first, their democratic form of government, which functions in complete harmony with the monarchy, then the monarchy itself, their beloved Queen, her son Willem-Alexander, the Prince of Orange, and his beautiful Argentine-born wife Princess Maxima.

Anyone who lives or has an office overlooking the parade route also becomes immensely popular on Prinsjesdag. Friends crowd in to press against windows and fill balconies.

Coffee — the national Dutch drink — and wine flow, the latter in moderation. It is, after all, just noon and The Hague, seat of the Dutch government, is known for moderation in all things.

Traveling with a native, this reporter was invited to enjoy the pomp of Prinsjesdag — with ample white wine and biscuits — through the open second-floor windows of Jan Beeuwkes Couture, a quietly elegant emporium three doors from the palace. It was like watching a period movie on a widescreen over the heads of the crowd below, a scant few feet from the Queen's carriage as she passed by.

These days, many Dutch stay home to watch Prinsjesdag events on television, so never mind if you don't have time to cultivate a connection with a view: it's easy to find a good watching spot somewhere along the parade route. Get to the parade route early, no later than 11:30 a.m., and do as the Dutch do: wear or wave something orange in honor of the House of Orange, the ruling family that dates from the early l6th century. Orange flowers, sweaters, or T-shirts do for grownups, although in this most formal of Dutch cities, the men are likely to turn out wearing proper jackets with bright orange neckties.

The Dutch children, charming cliches with their blonde hair and blue eyes, clamor atop of the barricades to wave flags or home-painted signs greeting the Royals when they ride by in separate carriages: first the Crown Prince and Princess Maxima, then, at length, the Queen herself, in that storybook golden coach with liveried footmen all around.

The coach alone is worth the trip. Straight from the pages of a fairy tale — so what if today's Queen waves through bulletproof windows? — it's a masterpiece of Dutch Renaissance style reminiscent of the Golden Age of the l7th century, all gilded cherubs and mythical figures from Dutch history. It's also a miracle of modern engineering. A gift in l898 to Wilhelmena, Beatrix's storied grandmother, when she ascended the Dutch throne as an l8-year-old, the coach features then-new marvels like electricity and a custom-designed suspension system (to ward off royal seasickness as the coach sways slowly down the city's streets).

Drawn by eight black horses with marcelled manes and tails, and hooves blacked for the occasion, the coach is a national treasure that comes out just this once every year — except for rare occasions like royal weddings. The Queen more often travels by helicopter, especially on April 30, her official birthday, when she flies off to visit a different town each year.

On Prinsjesdag, the parade starts at the stroke of one o'clock from the Noordeinde Palace, where the Queen has her offices, and proceeds at a regal pace to the imposing brick Ridderzaal, "Hall of Knights," built in 1247. By then, members of both Houses of the Dutch Parliament are dressed in their formal best — lavish hats for the women — and already seated to the left, right, and opposite the throne where the Queen is to make her address. Once she's on her way, the MPs can gauge her progress: Salutes are fired at one-minute intervals as the parade makes its way toward the Ridderzaal.

The parade itself is the stuff of an operetta, lead by waves of horse guards on color-matched steeds, followed by regiments from all the Dutch armed services, with marching bands in full-dress regalia (think flying ribbons and egret feathers). Striding four abreast down The Hague's narrow streets, they put on a big show for a small country, population less than l7 million, every one of whom tunes in when the Queen's speech is televised.

It's an important speech, written not by the Queen but by the Prime Minister and the cabinet, because it outlines the government's plans for the coming year, for example, more programs for immigrants or more money for the arts.

Whatever she says, the Queen is sure to be applauded. The moment she's finished, the speaker proclaims, "Long live the Queen!" and everyone replies, "Hurray! Hurray! Hurray!"

Then the Queen climbs back in the Golden Coach, the parade reverses, and the family returns to the Noordeinde Palace. So, be warned, many of the spectators rush in from all sides, children often on their shoulders, to be within eyeshot when the Royal Family comes out for the traditional wave from the palace balcony.

After that, everyone goes for a late lunch, or at least a coffee or beer in one of the many stylish cafes that abound in the center of town. Don't look for Amsterdam-casual here; The Hague is well dressed, well-mannered — some say stuffy — and very well aware that it's the center of official life in The Netherlands.

For an American with no royals except the occasionally unglamorous movie star, being in The Hague on Prinsjesdag can offer instant insight to the enduring appeal of a Royal Family, even in an entrenched democracy.

As one Dutch ex-pat now living in the U.S., puts it proudly, "The Queen represents the permanence and the glamour of our country."

IF YOU GO

For 12.50 euro, you can also book a "Prinsjesdag Package," including a grandstand seat, refreshments, and a guide; e-mail reserveringen@denhaag.com; booking fee 1.50 euro.)

Rose Bennett Gilbert is the co-author of "Hampton Style" and associate editor of Country Decorating Ideas. To find out more about Rose Bennett Gilbert and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE, INC.