The dry, desert terrain would be the least likely place to celebrate the Christmas holidays — so, I thought. Christmastime to me conjures up caroling, colorful lights, festive meals and music — all of which I delightfully discovered in the arid Arizona desert. I soon realized that one can find the spirit in spas and holiday colors in nature's spectacular setting of red rocks and succulent greenery.

After a short shuttle ride outside Scottsdale's airport, I picked up my car and GPS system. From the moment I got off the plane, I noticed a welcoming friendliness and holiday hospitality surrounding me.

I soon arrived at the FireSky Resort & Spa, which is near Fashion Square, the center of the season's shopping bustle. The lobby of the hotel was bedecked with a giant lit tree surrounded by wooden beams embracing a cathedral ceiling and an elaborate stone fireplace for added warmth. The weather in December was unexpectedly chilly.

Greeting me in my room to keep me company was Tahoe the goldfish-a nice welcome for a single traveler. I freshened up for a light meal at the hotel's Taggia, where I enjoyed a homegrown, organic beet salad and crabmeat and mushroom ravioli. To further unwind, I completed the evening with a relaxing massage at the hotel's Jurlique Spa. This was just what I needed after a full day of travel.

The next morning, I headed for 25 minutes along Camelback Road to Paradise Valley for a bountiful brunch at Lon's, the 1930s adobe-style restaurant at Hermosa Inn, the former home of cowboy artist Lon Megargee. The hacienda-style restaurant features Megargee's Western-themed woodcuts and paintings. Legends have it that Lon's presence is still around with his ghost lurking in the wine cellar.

The Original Hacienda Brunch was a hearty holiday treat with platters of fresh fruit and wood-grilled meats for just $24 per person. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to sample their enticing Christmas Eve Dinner menu of roasted turkey, corn chowder, shrimp and Dungeness crab cake, and maple roasted sweet potatoes, topped off with a holiday yule log.

During the afternoon, I drove along North Scottsdale Road from my hotel to the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Gainey Ranch to visit the Native American & Environmental Learning Center, where I met Hopi native Moontee Sinquah. Moontee, who has been educating adults and children alike, took me through The Hopi Voice Exhibit, which showcased his ancestry with handmade dolls, costumes, and jewelry. Considered more like an ambassador for his culture, he proudly said, "I can share what my great grandparents have passed on and the uniqueness of my culture."

He added that Native Americans celebrate the winter solstice, which occurs the night before Christmas when pray feathers are brought to the shrines and children and adults celebrate with music and dance, as an expression of deep appreciation for nature. This was quite a refreshing take to the holidays.

During the evening hours, with the abundance of prickly pear cacti, earthen-colored rock formations, and stucco homes encircling me, I experienced the Christmas spirit in full force.

The air was crisp, and almost mystical under the navy-blue starlit skies above a silhouetted mountain range, when I visited the Desert Botanical Garden's Las Noches de las Luminarias.

This was the best holiday show in town with thousands of hand-lit luminarias brightening the mass of foliage. I bundled up in the cold, and strolled through various garden paths where talented entertainers sang everything from jazz to bluegrass, embraced by a backdrop of colored lights and a dramatic mountainscape.

Just five minutes down North Galvin Parkway past the gardens sits the Phoenix Zoo, one of the largest light shows in the Southwest. Some 2.5 million bulbs illuminate animal displays, a carousel, and camel rides. The venue draws a throng of families and small children — much more hectic than the Desert Botanical Garden, which I preferred after a day of sightseeing.

The two-hour Holiday Lights on the Desert tour at Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin West is yet another spectacular evening event showcasing performers, choral singers, cabaret theater, and light refreshments.

Choosing where to go for a festive dinner does not pose a problem in Scottsdale. The dilemma is which place to choose. At the spectacular Phoenician Resort & Spa off of Camelback Road, there are three fine dining choices alone offering holiday fare: the Five Diamond award-winning Mary Elaine's, Windows on the Green for Southwestern cuisine, or The Terrace where each morsel that crossed my palate became a memorable experience. My lobster, scallops, and mushroom risotto and seafood medley were punctuated by a mouthwatering chocolate cake and fine selection of wine. On warmer days, one can overlook lush gardens on the patio dining area. I heard Sunday brunch is not to be missed. The Phoenician also has a host of activities from menorah lighting to marshmallow roasting, cowboy singalongs, children's cooking classes, and even rock climbing.

A trip to Arizona wouldn't be complete without a drive to the theatrical red rock formations of Sedona, coined "the museum without walls." I stayed overnight at the peaceful Enchantment Resort, away from the hectic energy of downtown Sedona and the Christmas lit Tlaquepaque, strewn with vibrant art galleries. The owners of El Prado Gallery, with a busy patio of sculptures, were very helpful about getting around the arts and craft village, as well as the surrounding area..

I hopped on the Sedona Trolley to get an overview of the majestic landscape before heading down Highway 89 to dine at the Heartline Cafe. Its friendly owners bring a healthful touch to a creative menu of fresh herbs and housemade breads — a homey find.

My desert holiday ended with a ride on the rails. Verde Canyon Railway's Santa Claus Express in nearby Clarkdale was definitely a worthwhile sidetrip. I journeyed 20 miles and four hours over a series of trestles and a 680-foot tunnel.

As I gazed through the window passing snow-capped peaks in the distance, I noticed the mountains changing colors from pale beige to tangerine and strips of pink and salmon,. The train chugged through fields of greenery, accented by cottonwoods, wildflowers, waterfalls, cacti and yucca.

My attention was soon diverted back to the train when Mr. and Mrs. Claus and their friendly elf gave out cookies and candy to accompany the warm cocoa. After all, it was the Christmas season, even out in nature's painted desert landscape.

IF YOU GO

General Information: Scottsdale Convention and Visitors Bureau, www.experiencescottsdale.com, 1-800-782-1117; Phoenix Convention and Visitors Bureau, (602) 254-6500. Email: visitors@visitphoenix.com, www.visitphoenix.com.

ACTIVITIES

— Las Noches Las Luminarias at Desert Botanical Garden- 1201 N. Galvin Parkway, Phoenix. Opened from 5:30-9:30 p.m., 480-941-1225

— Zoolights at the Phoenix Zoo- 455 N. Galvin Parkway, Phoenix, opened 6:00 p.m. to 10 p.m. 602-273-1341

— Santa Claus Express on Verde Canyon Railroad, 300 N. Broadway, Clarksdale, reservations at 1-800-293-7245

— Taliesin West Holiday Night Lights, Scottsdale-480-860-2700, www.franklloydwright.org

— Holidays at the Heard Museum- 2301 N. Central Avenue, Phoenix, 602-251-0232, www.heard.org. Native American performances and artist demonstrations. An exceptional introduction to the real history and culture of Native Americans.

HOTEL AND HOLIDAY PACKAGES

— FireSky Resort & Spa- 4925 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-945-7666, www.fireskyresort.com.

— Home for the Holiday Packages - where each room is decorated with holiday themes, garlands and miniature pine trees. Rooms range from $199 to $329 for suites.

—The Phoenician -600 East Camelback Road, Scottsdale, 480-423-2657, www.ThePhoenician.com.

Offers special holiday rates and dinners.

— Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort and Spa at Gainey Ranch-7500 East Doubletree Ranch Road, Scottsdale, 480-444-1234, www.scottsdalehyatt.com

Daily carolers, Christmas dinners and buffet with seafood, omelette, and carving stations.

— Hermosa Inn and Lon's Restaurant- 5532 N. Palo Cristi Road, Scottsdale, 480-424-6068, www.hermosainn.com. Open for Christmas Eve, Christmas, and New Year's Eve dinners.

— The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa, 6902 E. Greenway Parkway, Scottsdale, www.kierlandresort.com, 480-945-7666.

— Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa- 5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Blvd., Chandler, 520-796-8246, www.wildhorsepassresort.com

— Property built on the Gila River Indian Reservations with hiking trails, fine dining and Christmas dinner Native American style at Ko'Sin. Santa's Theme Park nearby, plus great spa treatments using ancient healing remedies.

Beverly Mann is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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