The question we kept asking each other was, "Where is everybody?"

The six of us had come early to Vancouver, British Columbia, for a family wedding so that we could spend some time together and see the sights in this third largest — and arguably most beautiful — Canadian city. We'd come over a weekend at the height of the tourist season, so we were prepared for long lines and crowded stores and cafes. But even at the most popular spots there was virtually no wait and a table for six at a good restaurant during the lunch hour was no problem.

The secret onto which we had unwittingly stumbled, we found out, was that we had based our operation in North Vancouver, a part of the city that was significant to the couple who were getting married but undiscovered by most visitors to Vancouver.

"North Van is kind of a hidden gem, and I think it will stay that way for a while," said Alyssa, our server at Gusto di Quattro, an Italian restaurant we had discovered by accident because it was just around the corner from our hotel. "Nobody comes over here."

While she chatted with us she served plates of halibut on risotto with a lobster sauce, linguini and clams, and a fiery pasta arribiata and poured wines from a substantial list and Proseco straight from Italy. The restaurant was itself a hidden gem, but we had managed a table, even without a reservation, on a Saturday night.

We were staying at the Lonsdale Quay Hotel because the wedding couple had been there before and loved it — and so did the rest of us. Situated right on the water, it is at the heart of North Vancouver commerce and activity. My daughter and I decided to turn off the air conditioning in our room and throw open the windows so that we could watch the tugboats come and go well into the night. We awoke to the scream of seagulls and the waves of sailors below who were gearing up to escort cruise ships and cargo liners into the Burrard Inlet port.

On the floors beneath us, the Lonsdale Quay Market, an eclectic collection of shops and restaurants, lured us repeatedly from our room. Stalls in the first-floor International Food Court offer meals from around the world, all of which can be devoured on a nearby patio that overlooks the water and the Vancouver skyline. At lunch one of us had sushi, another had fish and chips, and a third had an old-fashioned, freshly made hamburger and fries. For dessert we all tried dragon fruit from the produce market. Other choices included Greek, Vietnamese and Indian, pizza, deli and fudge. We began each day with breakfast at Bean Around the World, a coffee shop with a limited but satisfying selection of breakfast sandwiches and pastries that the genial owner cheerfully heated and brought to our table.

Shops of all kinds fill the second floor of the market. Here we found everything from official 2010 Olympics gear, souvenirs and kids' clothing to native crafts, crystal, gourmet kitchen equipment and a wellness salon whose steamy aromatherapy scents tempted shoppers to come in for another whiff. A lounge on that level called Tantra was a good place for a drink before dinner, and the Cheshire Cheese next door served an English menu that included a seafood pie and Moroccan vegetarian stew.

From the Lonsdale Quay, it was easy to catch a bus (or take a free shuttle) to the Capilano Suspension Bridge, my favorite of all the places we visited. The bridge, built in 1889, spans 450 feet, and its swaying 230 feet above the Capilano River was not for everyone in our group. That was unfortunate because the best part lay on the "other" side, where the Treetops Adventure allows visitors to walk among the tops of the Douglas firs by means of a system of smaller suspension bridges and treehouses. Trails run throughout the coastal temperate rainforest and lead down to the river. A ranger gives regular tours, where we learned such facts as that the local brown bats eat 600 insects every night, which accounts for there being very few in the forest, and that bears eat the roots of the skunk cabbage plant.

Back on the other side of the bridge we watched members of a First Nation tribe create native crafts and walked through a park filled with totem poles. My guidebook labeled this attraction as "too touristy," but we appreciated being immersed in nature and declared it to be pure fun.

From there, we caught a bus to Grouse Mountain, a popular ski resort in the winter and a great way to see the Vancouver panorama any time of the year. A tram took us to the top of the 4,100-foot mountain, and from there we took a chairlift ride partway back down for spectacular views and good pictures. A short hike brought us to an enclosure that held an orphaned grizzly bear that was being cared for by the rangers.

Despite our fascination with "North Van," we didn't skip the main city. Vancouver's efficient public transport system makes it possible to get anywhere in town within minutes. Each morning we bought an all-day pass from a kiosk in the station near our hotel for $9 ($7 for children, seniors and disabled people). This allowed us to take the 12-minute SeaBus ride across the inlet to Waterfront Station, and from there short walks brought us to Gastown, with its restaurants and entertainment, and Chinatown's Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Garden and night market. The SkyTrain whisks visitors to just about anyplace they'd like to go, and the No. 19 trolley bus will deliver them to Stanley Park and its legendary aquarium, also just minutes away.

IF YOU GO

Lonsdale Quay Hotel and Market: www.lonsdalequay.com

Capilano Suspension Bridge: www.capbridge.com

Grouse Mountain: www.grousemountain.com

Gusto di Quattro: www.quattrorestaurants.com

SIDEBAR

A Destination Wedding in Vancouver

Getting married in Canada is easy for U.S. citizens to accomplish, but there are some procedures that must — by law — be followed. People who have been married before need to show proof of the death of a spouse or divorce papers. If either member of the couple is under 19, he or she will require parental consent.

A marriage license, which costs $100, is available from any authorized Vital Statistics Agency office, which in our case was an insurance office in a neighborhood mall. The license is good for three months from the date of issue.

By Googling "marriage commissioners" our couple found Maureen Hunter (mehunter@shaw.ca), who has performed more than 100 weddings for U.S. couples in the past six years and who tailors the ceremony specifically to each relationship. Because she is licensed by the Canadian government, she also included the necessary legal passages. Prior to our arrival, she communicated with the couple by e-mail to make suggestions and plan the service. Two witnesses are required, but Hunter can provide them if the couple has no family or friends in town.

The wedding I attended was on a secluded patio at the Lonsdale Quay hotel with a view of the inlet and the Vancouver skyline beyond. However, Vancouver abounds with perfect spots for weddings — from its 200 city parks to hotel ballrooms and churches. Just Google "Vancouver wedding" and you'll find plenty from which to choose.

Glenda Winders is a freelance travel writer. To find out more about "columnist name" and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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